Shiplogs: Lau Islands and Northern Fiji

magyarul

     22/07/2013 - 27/09/2013                                   ««   page 1/8   »»

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132. day - 30/11/-0001 - , Lau Group, Fiji English translation is missing, sorry....

1. day - 22/07/2013 - , Preparation Hot spring (for cooking) The one week we spent in Savusavu flew by. We organised our cruising permit including the Lau Group and got full support from Copra Shed Marina. On our last day we also did our coastal clearance. We need to report our position every week to the Customs via email. We also did our provisioning and made some trips to the ridge of the hills above the town. A local couple told us that there was an 8 days rainy period from the day we arrived. The temperature was generally below 30. We loved Savusavu. Everyone was very kind. People greet each other with Bula and smile. The locals are about 50% Fijian and 50% Hindu. The town is famous about its hot springs and we found pots of food cooked over the bubbling springs. There are a number of good restaurants in the town with fine food. We could even find sour cream at the Savusavu Wine and Spirits shop. The town provides anything a yacht needs. There are 3 banks and in the shops we could buy everything from food to electronics (except for an underwater camera). We could also fill up our European propane bottles that we could not do in New Zealand. We loved Curlys welcome on VHF in the mornings and his navigation course. During this week we socialised with the yachts around us and learnt a lot about Fiji that we hope to use during our cruising here. Finally we bought the kava roots which should be presented to the villages at arrival as a part of a ceremony. We also bought the sulus to cover our legs and to be able to dress like a Fijian. Harbour Harbour Harbour Lazy dog Car Savusavu Power pole Savusavu bay Savusavu bay Savusavu bay Savusavu Savusavu Savusavu Vegetation, Savusavu Savusavu bay Vegetation, Savusavu Vegetation, Savusavu Light stones floating in the strainer Vegies Fueled up Savusavu bay Lovo Pearl farm Savusavu, Fiji Savusavu, Fiji Savusavu, Fiji Savusavu, Fiji Savusavu, Fiji Stocked up Cleaning potatoes Fruits and vegies Kava Store Trying Fijian beer Restaurant, Savusavu Beer bottle collections Pizza Raft Dinghy dock

2. day - 23/07/2013 - , Departing for Lau Group Due to a low formulated at Minerva reef the weather conditions became just perfect for a departure to the Lau Group. We aim the Southern Lau Group in a south, south-westerly weak wind (around 10 knots). Generally, Savusavu is a good starting point to the Eastern Lau Group. Because of the prevailing easterly trade wind, which is generally strong (Beaufort 5-6) you can slowly work yourself down to the East through the islands at the North. However, we felt we needed to use this weather window to ensure a comfortable passage with the wind for the rest of the trip. We sail at the Koro sea in ocean conditions as the islands are far away. The trip to the Southern Lau will took us roughly two days in the forecasted weak wind. We met a number of boats during our stay in Savusavu. We also met a boat with a captain from Hungary. Before entering the Savusavu channel we saw a number of buoys, which we tried to avoid. These were not marked on the maps. Our first day was according to the GFS forecast. Fine passage in weak winds. Note that the local forecast was different and predicted 15-20 knots south-easterly wind (the GFS predicted 7 knots south-westerly wind). We aimed the Koro Island, where we saw dolphins and then sailed towards the Southern Lau Group. The full moon is like a beam light during the night. Just perfect conditions.

3. day - 24/07/2013 - , Towards the Lau Group GFS vs FijiMet = 1:0. The wind is continously weakening (only Beaufort 1-2). Somewhere below us there is a Low and we got the 2-4 meters ocean swell from it. We had to start the engine as there was no wind to stabilise the boat. We again crossed the Meridian today. We also caught a tuna for dinner. We decided to avoid the swells for the rest of the trip so we headed to the islands, which could give some protection. The moon provides perfect conditions to this and there is very good visibility. Curly suggested to wrap the kava with the latest newspaper. So we wrapped it with the latest Fijian Times we bought in Savusavu because the locals like to read it.

4. day - 25/07/2013 - We arrived at an island called Fulaga (prounance it: Fulanga) at dawn. There is a coral reef around the island and has one entrance approximately 55 meters wide. Slack water is the best to get into the lagoon, so we waited for that. We have downloaded the tides to an island called Moala and estimated the slack from it. At half past 9 we tried the entrance and it was where the SeaMap showed (2008). The Garmin map was however far out from the truth. We used eyeball navigation instead of the maps and there was a coral head at the end of the entrance (slightly on the left). We have also downloaded earlier waypoints from other sailors from the Internet. Based on that we had to go very close to a rock in the pass. We stopped at the southern anchorage. It is a beautiful lagoon with turquoise water and mushroom shaped limestone islets. We have not seen anything like that before. We took the dinghy to the main village called Muana-i-cake (there are 3 villages in Fulaga). It was 1 mile dinghy ride and we saw a shed at the shore. The village was 20 minutes walk from here (so this village cannot be seen from the lagoon). The road goes through a forest with full with mosqitoes. We were in a hurry as we wanted to arrive to the village before lunch. The village was very quiet. We asked for the representative at the first house from a woman, then a man (Akwila) came who said us to wait. There is a boat representative here called Tai. He arrived a couple of minutes later and was busy with cruisers from a Spanish boat. After a fast introduction Tai led us into the chiefs house for the sevusevu. The sevusevu is a mandatory ceremony in the villages. Tai also showed us where to sit. Everyone was sitting on the ground on a mat except for the chief. The appropriate clothing for the sevusevu is a sulu, which covers the legs. Shoulders also have to be covered and hats and glasses need to be removed. We also took off the shoes before entering the house. While in Fiji the state retains ownership of the ocean and her resources, the people of Fiji have been given the right to fish from allocated areas of coral reef referred to as iQoliqoli. If the yacht is berthed within one of the iQoliqoli jurisdictions (apart from a marina) you will need to present your sevusevu to the village and ask for permission to stay. As part of the sevusevu ceremony we provided the kava roots wrapped in the latest Fijian newspapers to Tai (boat representative and our spokesman). He asked for 50 fijian dollar for te anchorage and said it goes to the entire local community (includin the 3 villages). He introduced everyone to the chief and checked our crusing permit. There were 3 claps (called cobo and loud and deep) which in Fijian culture means: I am about to speak. Then Tai started to talk in Fijian. The chiefs spokesman accepted our arrival and the kava (Tai provided to him). This was followed with 3 cobos and then the chiefs representative started to speak, then a chant was closed with 3 cobos again. After the sevusevu ceremony w said thank you to the chief and shaked his hands. Accepting our kava meant that now we are VIP in the village and part of their family while we are in Fulaga. This also means that they are helping us now and share their food (including fruits and fish) and waters with us. We had to register our boat name into anexercise book (there were already 26 boats registered for this year who have visited Fulaga). Two other boats were arrived at the same time with us. We also got an invitation to the Sunday church and the following lunch. Kava roots (yaqona in Fiji) are roots of a pepper tree and are used to produce a drink with mild sedative and anesthetic properties. Although the boats arriving to this anchorage pay the 50 Fijian dollar anchorage fee, entering Fiji was one of the most expensive in our cruising so far. Based on the officials if you enter Fiji you are not suppose to pay for anchorage anywhere. Daily position: 00:00 18-46.60S 178-49.19W log= 105385.2

5. day - 26/07/2013 - , Once upon a time... Once upon a time there was a fisherman, who was living in a village called Nairidamu. He introduced himself to us as Tomasi. He asked if we had got fish, but we had not got any. So he promised to bring some to us. We insisted instead to go with them for lobster fishing. So he agreed to do a lobster fishing and a picknick tomorrow. They wanted to go with the dinghy, but we said we do not have enough fuel to go with it. He wanted to give us some fuel, but we said that it is not necessary, we can do the picknick with the sailing boat. So it was agreed. Daily position: 00:00 19-08.29S 178-34.80W log= 105410.8 .

6. day - 27/07/2013 - , The Picknick In the morning we anchored off the Nairidamu village. The wind started to be strong around 15-22 knots. This village is at the west part of the lagoon. In increasing easterly wind the waves are breaking at the shore and you cannot see the corals. We could not get to the shore with the dinghy. We were waiting for the fisherman a bit, but could not see anyone at the shore so slowly raised the anchor. It seemed that there will not be any lobster fishing today. We started to go when we heard kids shouting from behind. A fishing boat was after us with a number of kids on board. When they arrived next to the boat we saw Tomasi in the boat. We were a bit afraid of that they all want to come on board for the picknick (3 grownups and 6 children) as there is not too much space on our boat. But finally only Tomasi, his cousin and his 2 children came. The rest of them were just the supporting team to catch us with a strong boat and engine. The kids were at the first time on a sailing boat. So we left for a picknick. First it was strange to see that apart from a meal prepared from banana and coconut they only brought a machete and water. So we added some cookies, fruits and a knife to the pack. Thomasi knew the way he stood at the bow and showed the direction. So we followed him. Our only option was the eyeball navigation as we had not got any waypoints for this part of the lagoon. He led us to north next to a coral head. The water was turquoise and there were some abandoned houses on the shore. From Éva: I went to shore with Tomasi and his two children (Peri-8 years old boy and Tare -11 years old girl). The two children started to swipe out and tidy up the two abandoned houses. The owners of the houses moved to Suva. Thomasi disappeared with his machete. Peri started to dig the place of the lovo. The lovo is a meal prepared in the earth (like the umu in Polinezia). He also carefully selected some stones. Tare collected the dry coconuts, then climbed a tree for the fresh ones. Tomasi arrived back with cassave and finished the lovo. Tare peeled the cassave. Peri peeled the coconuts with a sharp stick digged into the ground. When the stones became white in the lovo they put the cassave into covered with palm leaves then with soil. While we were waiting Tomasi talked about the village and was making a basket from palm leaves. There are about 50 people lives in this village. The children go into a boarding primary school to main village (about 1 hour walk from this village) so the only spend their weekends at home. If they would like to study further they have to move to Suva. Elderly people also move to Suva, because there is no hospital or doctor in these villages. Someone wanted to build a resort here, but the locals refused to build it. Tare said that they have 3 subjects in the school maths, English and science. They study in English. (The people are half Fijian half Hindu in the country so English is a common language. Tomasi felt sorry that they have to leave the village next year because Tare would like to study further in Suva. He believes that life is expensive in the town. Here everyone is responsible for the community. The lunch with Thomasi and the kids was delicious. By the time the lobster hunters arrived we had baked cassava (other names: yuca, tapioka, manioka) in lovo with coconut which was spooned out with a shell. Drink from the coconut with popos stroke. Tomasi complained that they eat these when they run out of rice, flour and sugar. The supply boat only comes once a month. Peri also tried to catch chicken, but finally could not manage it. These people are poor, but rich in their hart. Their heritage goes from father to son (such as how to make basket, carvings etc.). From Géza: Short version: we caught 2 huge lobsters with the spear.

7. day - 28/07/2013 - , Sunday Church The methodist religion was started to spread with David Cargill and William Cross missionaries when they arrived to the South Lau Group (Lakeba) on 12 October 1835. Every Sunday morning at 10 am people gather in the Methodist church of the Muana-i-Cake village. It was in English, but we cruisers were introduced to the village by Tai name by name (there were 3 boats). We had a lunch in Tai house on a mat we sat around. we had octopus, fish with cabbage, coconut mixed with cassave and coconut drinks. They hit the octopus to a tree for 15-20 minutes then they cook it for almost 3 hours to make it soft. hey serve the same dish in every house in the village (80 people in the main village, but many of them are at Suva currently). Women also do not touch the food until the guests finished eating. Tai said that in their culture they this is the way to respect their guests.

8. day - 29/07/2013 - , Trip to the land of skulls Today Akwila and Lendua led us to a cave. We climbed the cliffs behind the village with the cruisers of the Spanish boat. We looked into the cave and saw human skulls and bones. Melanesians bury the dead people into the ground not in a cave. We asked the locals about the story of the bones, but could not find an answer. Tai talked about the fights of the melanesians and polinesians, but we were not sure how these bones connected to these stories. After visiting the cave we climed a steeper cliff from where we had an amazing view to the village and the lagoon. On the road back to the villige we still need to remind ourselves to remove thehats and the sunglasses. We also visited a man who makes amazing carvings. He prepares kawa bols from a wood called vesi (iron wood, very hard wood). Fulaga is famous of its carvings especially of the polinesian canoes. Mini the master agreed to prepare a small picture to Rotor. Then we arrived at a house where ladies were weaving. From Éva: The ladies were weaving a mat made from dried palm leaves. So we learned how to make it. They cook the leaves, dry it, straight it with shells ehen roll it before weaving it. We alos sang Fijian, Spanish and Hungarian songs and started to do dancing. At lunch time they brought dhal (Fijian sup), cassava and pumpkin with rice and curry. We convinced them to eat together not separately (they wanted to wait until we finished lunch.) Then they asked if we can cook them one day. We agreed but only for the 10 ladies not the entire village. We set the date for Thursday. We try to memorise the ladies name in the weaving house: Salote, Koro, Rebbek, Penina, Tagato, Mata, Biu, Asena, Wati, Sera. We teased them if they can pronounce Gezas name. They could not so they were laughing. When we left the village they gave us plenty of banananas. From Géza: While the girls were weaving I went to see the laptop at the school. It had a number of viruses on. I was lucky to clean it manually. I have also explained to the teached that they have to be careful when they use USB sticks etc. It was lunch time so we were asked to stay for lunch. I said that my wife is somewhere in the village, but they answered that do not worry she was also eating. We had similar meal. The ladies did not start their lunch until we had finished it. When the computer was fixed, they also invited us for a lunch for Friday and for a kava ceremony. Akwila and Lendua led us back to the boat and they wanted to see it, so we invited them for an afternoon tea. The temperature is only 24-26 Celsius degrees, nice and sunny with 15-20 knots of wind.

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